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“Capital cities cost a fortune and your eye naturally falls on the prettiest and most expensive things first,’’ says Sandy McKeen, who runs La Bergerie du Mesnil farm in Normandy and sells his products at Parisian market stands three days a week. “It’s not easy to find the bargains.’’
There are, however, ways to shop smart. “Come early in the morning and compare prices,’’ he says. “If you come later when the market is crowded, you’ll be here forever.’’
Also bear in mind that despite the utility of going to a supermarket, it’s not necessarily cheaper. It’s common to find plastic bags of supermarket industrial cheese at the same price as their artisan equivalent at the cheesemonger.
Eventually, you’ll need to sleep and again, getting out of the center helps get you into the best rooms for the buck. Design fans will flip for the Philippe Starck-designed Mama Shelter, a modern oasis that proudly sticks out like a sore thumb in the heart of the residential 20th arrondissement. Specials start at $122 a night and the city’s bar/restaurant of the moment is on the ground floor. There’s also Hotel Amour just off the beautiful Rue des Martyrs in the ninth, with its artist-designed rooms, playfully erotic motifs, and prices that - starting at around $142 along with ever-changing special offers - can be as soft as the pillows.
If you’re looking for something more classic and central, try the Aviatic on the Rue Vaugirard, which not only has prices starting at $170 for a double, but also throws in amenities like a free “apéro,’’ or aperitif, a few days a week.
Regardless, don’t be afraid to bargain. “If there’s not a discount on the particular date you’re looking for, you should ask for one,’’ says Brooke, who worked in hotel PR in a former life. “It’s always worth asking if they can do better.’’
It’s also worth looking into renting or exchanging an apartment, particularly for longer stays. Some apartments rent by the night - you can swing a studio for under a hundred bucks, less if you stay longer - and get as big and fancy as you want. Sites like vrbo.com, craigslist, vacationinparis.com, and rentparis.com can involve a leap of faith (make sure you check the scam warnings, vet the listing, and, if possible, talk to the owner), but the rewards can be great - particularly the economy and relaxation of having your own kitchen and dining room.
Following Brame’s advice, I wake early the morning after I meet her, find a cafe seat in the sun, and watch the city come to life around me. It’s been years since I’ve slowed down to watch, and as the city wakes, I see it with new eyes. There’s the relaxed talk of people still oblivious to the city’s rush; the perfect, flaky croissant; and the city at my feet.
This is the city I love.
Boston.com
